Just Hungry

(I've noticed an increasing number of searches for this again. It's that time of year after all. Here in middle Europe, Christmas markets are starting up again in earnest this week, and of course mulled wine (Glühwein) is a must at any Christmas market. In case you can't make it to one, here's my recipe for Glühwein from the archives. How many days to Christmas? Originally published in December 2005, and expanded slightly.)

I have rather mixed feelings about Christmas markets (called Christkindlmarkt in German and Marché de Noel in French), which abound in this part of the world at this time of year. On one hand, they are colorful and seasonal and very festive. But unlike flea markets, which I'm addicted to, and crafts/artisan's markets, the merchandise selection can be a bit mixed. There's an awful lot of touristy junk being sold. They can also be horribly crowded - try going to the Nürnberg (Nurenberg) market on a weekend after 7pm and coming out alive! (Note: I wrote that sentence 3 years ago, but last year I noticed that there was a whole lot less junk and more of the things Christmas market fans love, such as locally crafted items. Maybe people are paying attention to what people want!)

What makes Christmas markets tolerable is Glühwein, which is a mulled wine. Hot, a bit sweet, and spiced, it warms you up nicely as you brace yourself for another round of stall-gazing with more enthusiastic friends and family members pulling you along.

I like to make a potful of Glühwein sometimes at home too. It's a great drink to have after a bracing walk or yet another shopping trip. But the main reason I make it is that it makes the house smell so wonderfully festive.

The base for Glühwein varies - it can be white wine, cider (the alcoholic European kind of cider, not the apple juice of that name sold in North America), or even Jagermeister. I think that a robust red wine works the best though. If you want to up the alcoholic content and fun quotient, add a shot of liqueur like kirsch or pflaumen to each mug. (Don't add the shots to the hot pot or you will get a faceful of knock-out fumes.) No need to stop making it after Christmas either - it's such a warming, fragrant drink that it's served at many ski resorts.

Glühwein, mulled wine

• A 750ml bottle of inexpensive dry red wine (no need to splash out on something expensive, but it should be drinkable. I usually just use whatever red wine is on sale at the supermarket.)
• 2/3 cup of raw cane sugar or white sugar, or non-artificial sweetener of your choice
• Juice and peel of one small lemon
• 2 cardamon pods
• 4 cloves
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 cinnamon sticks

Put everything in a heavy bottomed pan. Stir to melt the sugar. Heat the mixture over low heat, and leave for about an hour - it should never boil, just sort of seethe.

Serve in small mugs (straining out the peel and spices), with optional shot of brandy, kirsch or other liqueur.

Notes: Increase the amount proportionately to serve more people. Vary the sweetener to change the taste - honey is interesting, as is dark brown sugar or molasses.

My take on some Christmas markets in Europe

My favorite big, typically Germanic Christmas markets are the ones at Salzburg, Austria and Strasbourg, France. The decidedly non-Germanic Christmas markets in the Provence, such as the one in Aix-en-Provence, are wonderful too.

If you love Christmas ornaments and things, Nurenberg, the biggest market of them all, is worth at least one visit, though you can buy the same Christmas items in the permanent stores in town without the awful crowds at any time of the year.

The market here in Zürich are a bit lacking if you are looking for Christmas kitsch, though there's a lot of merchandise to browse through. (The town of Zürich itself becomes elegantly decked out for the season.) The Glühwein with raclette combo is mighty tasty though. However, there are many terrific Christmas markets all around the country, especially in small towns. Consult the Swiss Tourism site for a schedule. This year, I plan to go to a lot more Swiss markets.